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Its alive! (Read 3248 times)
Mikes1082
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Its alive!
05/16/16 at 09:34:03
 
Well today i took the plunge and installed the MyECU i purchased last year. Cliff shipped it with his V1100 Lemans map so at least i know its in the ballpark. I carefully set up the throttle bodies and TPS with the old ECU prior to installation. I have a V1100 Lemans motor in a Tonti with a 15M and a power commander,  Exhaust, K&N's, ported heads with proper squish demensions, etc. It was running very well but despite my efforts to improve the squish,  it pings in high ambient temps and i have no effective way of changing the timing, thus the decision to go with MyECU. Well it immediately started and ran and only required a slight rotation of the throttle stop screw to get a decent idle. I eventually figured out how to adjust the idle mixture with the "slider" on the android map adjuster and now it idles nicely. Took it for a ride and its too lean with an occiasional spitback. Ill now try and sort through all the various cell changes and see where it takes me. Kind of a bit intimidating but ill give it a shot. Really seems like auto tune is the way to go. Do you guys recommend 2 O2'S or is one sufficient? Im also struggling with the Android program but learning as i go.......wish me luck.
Mike
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Mikes1082
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Re: Its alive!
Reply #1 - 05/16/16 at 09:49:58
 
Can someone explain the injector on-time setting? The colume to the left im asuming are the voltage points and to the right are adjustments for each one. My symptom is simular to a carb with a slight delay with the accelerator pump. You crack the throttle quickly and there is a slight delay before it revs. Im guessing i need to adjust the injector on time but not sure which cell to adjust or by how much? So lets say its idling around 12v. Do you go into that cell and lower the value? If so what increments do you work in? Im sorry for what may be obvious for you experienced guys. Still learning here. Thanks in advance
Mike
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« Last Edit: 05/16/16 at 09:56:59 by Mikes1082 »  
 
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raz
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Re: Its alive!
Reply #2 - 05/17/16 at 02:25:29
 
Hi

One O2 sensor is enough. Manual tweaking isn't that hard though, it just takes a little time to get the feel for it.

I once spent quite some time perfecting idle-to-WOT on a thirsty Centauro. Basically we increased the top half of the idle column, as well as the top-most cells on higher rpm columns up to 2500 rpm or so. On a side note you can't go above 16383 for any cell (it will roll over to a lower value). We actually ended up manually setting 16383 for some cells.

Oh BTW @Cliff, if I remember correctly that's a bug in the GUI unless it has been fixed already: Let's say you increase a cell or area with 10%. A cell that initially had a value of eg. 15000 should definitely bottom out at 16383 instead of rolling over to some three-digit number. It took some head scratching before we realized what was happening in there.
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Re: Its alive!
Reply #3 - 05/17/16 at 06:52:06
 
Are you referring to

# This table relates to the injector open/close times as a function of voltage
# The value here is roughly the time ( in us )
#         16V   15V   14V   13V   12V   11V   10V    9V

InjVOn   1000  1000  1100  1200  1500  1700  2000  2500


This table is to compensate for sluggish injector response to low voltage.

For blipping the throttle at idle, decreasing the injector advance around idle to 300 degrees can help. That assumes you mapping is correct in the first place.

@Raz, no that's not fixed. I wasn't aware of that.
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Re: Its alive!
Reply #4 - 05/17/16 at 07:04:11
 
Also when you made the initial adjustment to idle. You should have also used this for a global map adjustment.
For instance if you found 5% richer helped with the idle, go back to the original map and then make everything 5% richer.
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