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Centauro (Read 58 times)
Thijs_Nl
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Centauro
12/31/20 at 02:14:50
 
A long time ago..

I purchased the Myecu and installed it in my Centauro bike. at the time it was experiencing backfire which I thought would be resolved by implementing a new ECU (the original ECU is not fried, and is still operational to this day). (this should be somewhere 2016 ish timeframe).

Meanwhile I've overcome some relational issues and find my self staring at my V10 wanting it to get humming the way it should.

So.. these are the things I have done to the bike;
- KN filters (stock airhousing removed)
- Mistral crossover
- O2 sensor (wideband)
- New exhaust valves (suffered heat damage) and seats

I have started out on the instructions that cliff posted on the website;
- Disengaged o2 sensor.
- Sport map (stock)
- App on the phone
- setup the "starting voltage" on the TPS (96)

I have done several experiments but am not "content". The bike is starting poorly (it starts nice on the stock Ecu). I have not tried to drive it (i have several other bikes that can get me around).

As "sorting the Start" is basically the first step to getting anywhere, i would like to focus on that.

Basic map used
As said, i Launched off of the Sport 1100 map, which is operating on the same ECU (originally) as the V10.

behaviour when cold @10-15 celsius
The bike will start (after turning over some revolutions) and requires throttle input to keep going. Its smelling of fuel, so fuel is not short.

I have Used colourtune (transparant spark plug) to establish if there is any difference between the two cilinders and there is. The Right hand cilinder is more orange (rich) than the left hand cilinder (lean-er).

This seems to be more or less equal with the Stock ECU.

So.. how to proceed?
Should I
  • - Change ignition
    - Change fuel

Where i could, in case of fuel tackle the obvious;
- level the fuel injection first (through the offset map, it states the 2nd cilinder is offset vs the first.. but is Right hand side the 1st?)
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Re: Centauro
Reply #1 - 12/31/20 at 07:16:46
 
There are a number of options available but before picking one you need to make sure you have the correct idle mixture when the bike is completely warm - oil temp > 50C. A hot idle should be about 1200RPM but you will probably find that some throttle will always be required from a cold start. The oil is thicker and that is the reason the fast idle lever was installed.
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Re: Centauro
Reply #2 - 12/31/20 at 09:20:51
 
Hi Cliff,

Thanx for the quick response.

Got it, so..

1st step, get the engine up to temperature, where it should remain at idle on its own. This should be achieved at low end operating temp of 50C.

Checking into the maps I note that this temperature is also the level at which no fuel boost is given anymore.

I will check on this.

Minor complicating factor
Although my phone (i use an old Google Nexus 5 - my recent Honor 10 fails to connect) does seem to connect frequently, it occasionally fails to connect. This is frustrating when trying to get results. Next to this, the screen (when not touched) goes dark (power saving feature) which is also very annoying. 

I would like to switch to a wired connection and a laptop. The laptop doesnt power down its screen (i know where this setting is in the laptop, i have not found a similar setting on android). So monitoring what happens is easier. Perhaps logging etc is also somewhat more practical.

I have seen your response to Matieu which suggest  USB type of connection. I am unsure wether i should source the same type of cable.

I have seen the pages on the comms protocol, I am however completely coding illiterate, so should any software be available i would gladly use that.  (reviewing the protocol page leads me to believe that i would most likely be served with a usb-serial converter with some "wires" specifically patching into a patch cable from the serial end of the USB converter).

Glad to be hearing from u!
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Re: Centauro
Reply #3 - 12/31/20 at 16:13:48
 
I would not recommend the laptop route as I've long ago abandoned further development on that platform.

Could your Nexus be interfering with the Honor connecting? I recall someone having interference issues. Try telling the nexus to forget the MyECU.

You probably have one of the earlier BT dongles. BT was a bit hit and miss back then. You could either restart the app or manually try and connect when it fails to connect. The current dongle (the third type I've used) works well.

You should be able to increase the time for screen going blank from the standard android settings, or you could just touch the display occassionally to keep the phone active.

My normal use of the the app is to connect to the ECU and then use the power button to dim so I can put the phone in my pocket.
When I'm done with the ride I can reactivate the phone with the finger print sensor and the app has been doing its thing all the while.
Remember the app creates a log file each time you start it. You should email the log file for diagnosis if required.
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Re: Centauro
Reply #4 - 01/01/21 at 21:29:49
 
First of, a happy new year to you all.

The suggestion of the interfering Bluetooth connection seems interesting, as it happened to be that both devices were in my garage at the time.. I was oblivious of this particular possibility.

I will test this again, but that will be tomorrow earliest as today I will be doing the (obligatory) family visits! Wink
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Re: Centauro
Reply #5 - 01/06/21 at 08:17:47
 
Hi Cliff (et al)

Well, I've done some further testing.

1st result.
Somehow eliminating all other BT sources in the neighborhood seemed to get things done! The connection to the BT dongle worked. I am well pleased with that result!

2nd result.
a. Trying to Download the map from the ECU seemed to stall on a certain message (I unfortunately do not recall what message exactly, but it remained in a state for a few minutes and all other functions from the menu were accessible so i gathered the download failed)

b. Uploading (i.e. programming the Myecu) seemed to be successful, i have however (just checked that) no log file to show for it. 


3rd result.
Using the original ECU i fired up the bike and let it idle for some time. Upon my return (and hooking up the MyEcu) i found out that the bike at that time reached an oil temp of 75C.

  • The starting went OK. (got some video footage, but somehow it is without sound when playing it on my pc, on my phone sound is present.. (WTF Angry)

  • Anyway, the bike ran ok.

  • The attached map is what it should have been running on.



Questions:
1. How can i verify that my alterations to the map were succesful? (i.e. programmed into the ecu?)

and.. returning to my previous situation:
- cold start is truly a mess.. (i tried that today also and obviously it would not start at all, however it should be mentioned that my garage is not heated and temperature at present should be some 4-5 ish degrees (celsius) so that would be cold.. The original ECU did manage to start the bike, since the MY-ECU kept it running once warm there should be no issue getting it started..

However, I would like to ensure that programming is OK. Consider me an idiot, but not knowing what changes have been done / verification of this is crucial. Any tips are welcome, i will post my results.  (and.. how can i post the video footage, it is interesting i would say).

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Re: Centauro
Reply #6 - 01/06/21 at 13:35:25
 
The log files are created in the same directory as the maps. I use a program called Ghost Commander to navigate my devices.
A new log file is always created. Have you allowed permissions to write files? Can you save maps from the ECU?

The last section of https://www.myecu.biz/MyECU/FirstSteps.htm gives some guidence on starts.

The lines you'd be interested in are (from my Sport11 map)

#Temp C   -30   -20   -10     0    10    20    25    30    40    50    60    70    80    90   100   110   125
Prime      30    30    25    20    17    14    11     9     8     7     6     5

# Crank is the %% boost of the map injection times right after start
# this boost decays to 0 over about 20s

#Temp C   -30   -20   -10     0    10    20    25    30    40    50    60    70    80    90   100   110   125
Crank      80    70    70    70    67    65    55    50    35    25    20    15    15    15    15     0

# OilT is the permanent choking boost

#Temp C   -30   -20   -10     0    10    20    25    30    40    50    60    70    80    90   100   110   125
OilT%   +64.1 +53.1 +43.8 +35.2 +29.7 +18.8 +10.2  +9.4  +5.5  +0.0


Given you mentioned smelling fuel I suggest something like

#Temp C   -30   -20   -10     0    10    20    25    30    40    50    60    70    80    90   100   110   125
Prime      14   14   14    14    14    14    11     9     8     7     6     5

#Temp C   -30   -20   -10     0    10    20    25    30    40    50    60    70    80    90   100   110   125
Crank      65    65    65    65    65    65    55    50    35    25    20    15    15    15    15     0

#Temp C   -30   -20   -10     0    10    20    25    30    40    50    60    70    80    90   100   110   125
OilT%   +18.8 +18.8 +18.8 +18.82 +18.8 +18.8 +10.2  +9.4  +5.5  +0.0


I may of got carried away with the cold compensation. I'm in Australia, cold, we've heard of it.
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