Time to join the 21st century and move away from the legacy RS232 serial communication currently used by MyECU.
Using bluetooth will enable PDAs to be used to communicate with MyECU.

With a firmware upgrade most existing MyECUs can use bluetooth.

I've settle on the eb301 bluetooth module from http://www.a7eng.com/
There are 2 variants that can be used -
1) eb301 Bluetooth Serial Adapters (3V/5V Interface with Onboard Antenna)
2) eb301 Bluetooth Serial Adapters (3V/5V Interface with UFL Connector)

For the DIYers you can get them from a7 direct and add the lan cable to connect to module to MyECU instead of the current serial adapter. Only 4 wires are used and it's a simple job to do. Details to follow.

For others I'll connect the cable for you. There's some finishing off required, boxing it. Myself I'll probably just wrap it in electrical tape and tape it to the bike. I'll announce pricing soon.

8-) :)

Cool stuff.

Would it be possible to put one of those in the Optimiser too? I guess the question is would the Optimiser firmware need to support it - or can I program this thing to a speed and it will remember it? Maybe you already added this support to the Optimiser as well?

I'm considering the alternatives to mount this vs the alternatives for switching between Optimiser and computer:

1. As a separate dongle, like you describe. Then I'd just disconnect Optimiser and connect the dongle.

2. Just the same, but inside the Optimiser. A small switch could be used to turn off the Optimiser and effectively turn it into a BT dongle. Or even better, the switch could alternate between Optimiser being read-only or BT being read-only. That should work, shouldn't it? I have considered doing that with cables, a working Optimiser and read-only logging at the same time.

3. One inside the ECU with a small external antenna. And another one inside the Optimiser, with built-in antenna. No cables but the Optimiser still need to be powered from somewhere.

Maybe #2 is coolest because it will let me have the Optimiser running and still a read-only BT connection to a logging device.

Do I have other, better options than these?

"Sorry, The A7 Engineering Online Store is closed for maintenance. We will re-open soon. Thanks"

Typical. I should have placed the order earlier. BTW I'm going for #2 of the above post for the time being.

Think most people will tune most of the basic map like before.
But,

My scenario when BT would come in handy f me:
I live in Gothenburg, Sweden, at sea level.
Main riding season temp is between +15-25C.
If I tour to the Alps & Italy, I may come to + 1500-2000 m altitude & +25-near 40C Temp.
Would be real handy to just take my cellphone and adjust those parameters. 8-)

Sorry, The A7 Engineering Online Store is closed for maintenance. We will re-open soon. Thanks"

Still the same message and they don't answer email. Cliff, do you have some of these in stock?

I've been watching that too. They are incredibly unhurried in getting online. Business must be good.

I bought 10. I had been waiting for any price changes but I'll put these up base on the price I got then.
See my the other post that I'm about to make.

I have a half dozen bluetooth modules available.

For the DIYers, the module by itself is AU$40. You'll need to buy a standard network cable.

I can provide the bluetooth module  with cable attached for AU$60. It still needs boxing.

You will also need new firmware. No cost if I send you the image for you to upgrade firmware yourself. See - http://www.cajinnovations.com/MyECU/Support_and_troubleshooting.htm .  Parts for a programming cable $10

A spare ECU chip with the latest firmware is available for $36.

Postage is additional

Hmmm. It looks like A7 may have gone tits up. They've lost their domain name.

Besides the BT communication,
is there a new ECUControl w other new features avliable?

Most of the new functionality is in the logging and faster map loading. Currently a few old features are missing ( individual cell editing via horizontal sliders ), waiting to be re implemented.

Beta testers only at this stage.

OK.

I suggest you skip the Apply button i Global map adjust window so noone makes the mistake of altering fuel or ignition twice as much as meant.

Good idea. That's always caused confusion.

I wasn't able to find a new source for your bluetooth adapter, but I did find this one:
http://rovingnetworks.com/rn-24.php
It looks like it has possibilities.  They also have a driverless dongle available.  What do you think?

1. If a Mini P8 is flashed f Bluetooth,
is the EcuControl 150 required f communication via RS 232?

2. Or, if a Mini P8 is flashed f Bluetooth,
is 232 communication no longer an option?

MiniMyP8 ??. I didn't think I had shipped any yet.

Bluetooth is the transport not the protocol. Bluetooth is the wire. It doesn't affect anything else.

If you have recent firmware, the bluetooth modem initialisation will be done on start up. You will know because the fuel pump is delayed. Switch 4 On is used to enable this function.

With bluetooth you will still be using ECUController for PC or Win Mobile. It doesn't know about bluetooth. It just connects to a serial port.

Thx.
So there is something funny w the cable-PCB connection then, 232 w cables no workie.

I have a P8 in a 1.6 chassie from Denmark.
Smaller PCB than in my P8, thought that was the Mini.
Looks like the one here: http://cajinnovations.com/yabb0/YaBB.pl?num=1240975766

Yes that's the mini.
You've had comms working before surely, as you had the unit for a while now.

I know nothing but don't forget the baudrate changed when BT support was added

Baudrate:
The term roughly means the speed that data is transmitted.
According to Wiki et others.


1. Does this mean I have to change settings somewhere for the PC harddware ?
Like COM1 port.

2. What practical consequence does other baud rate have in this case?

3. When I put my old MyECY P8 back,
is there any advantage using EcuControl 150 or is this version just developed f Bluetooth?

Just testing this Mini f a Danish friend.

The ECUController sets the baud rate.
The baud rate change also coincided with ECUController version change from 14x to 15x.

Better save the bluetooth module data here before it becomes unavailable.

http://www.cajinnovations.com/a7-qs-serial.pdf

MODERATOR I may be posting this to a subject that is now out of date, please move as you think fit.

I am interested in the BlueTooth solution, I bought my son a Samsung Mini for Christmas and as I am still bigger than him it sounds ideal.

This thread mentions a dongle, now unfortunately is no longer available, with several people suggesting alternatives.  So which is the preferred option for someone in the UK?

Cliff stated:
“For the DIYers you can get them from a7 direct and add the lan cable to connect to module to MyECU instead of the current serial adapter. Only 4 wires are used and it's a simple job to do. Details to follow".

Sadly I cannot find those details anywhere.

I assume I can cut up an old network cable, plug the RJ45 connector to the MyEcu and do the ‘simple job’ of soldering the other end to the dongle.

What powers the dongle?

How do I enable the MyEcu BT contact, SW4?

A diagram would really help.  Many thanks.

Some of the information I posted in the other thread seems to have gone missing. Here are some links to some sources.

http://microcontrollershop.com/product_info.php?products_id=4531
http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/RN-42-Bluetooth-Module-BOB-Roving-Networks-Use-Arduino-Pro-Mini-/190658844738

The main thing is the RN-42 module and if you google for "RN-42 for Arduino Pro / LilyPad" you'll find many more. They all seem to  be around the $40 mark.
Other parameters is that they are 5V powered and have 5V serial lines.

Only a few days ago I was told of another dongle on ebay that is around $10. I've ordered one and will update here as to whether it is any good.

I'll get some wiring diagrams soon.

Hi Pasotibbs, any news on the cheaper dongle?

That's weird. It was actually me that made that post, not Pasotibbs.

It hasn't arrived yet and upon reading a little more, it is not directly suitable as it seems to be RS232 output levels rather than 5V. Still there may be a simple mod, so we'll soon see.

PS: On further investigation it appears the seller has a TTL level equivalent also for the same price - http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=270979961067#ht_2633wt_1111
I've put an order in for one of those also.

I have just had two of these delivered from Ebay for £12 (item 180690200006), however  from your post it looks like I have made the mistake of getting RS232/TTL devices.  Is it just the voltage levels or someting more complicated.

These are the specs from Ebay:-

These Bluetooth transceiver module can modify master and slave mode at any time.
Description:
•Allow your target device to send or receive the TTL data via Bluetooth technology without connecting a serial cable to your computer
•With built in antenna
•Easy to use and completely encapsulated
•TTL data transfers between host Bluetooth device
•Can work with any USB Bluetooth adapters
•Can be used for mouse, keyboard, joystick, computers and peripherals, GPS receiver, industrial control, etc
•Mini Size (L x W x H): Approx. 27 x 13 x 2mm
Operating Frequency Band: 2.4GHz
Bluetooth Specification: V2.0+EDR
Output Power Class:Class 2
Operating Voltage:3.3V
Flash Memory Size:8Mbit
Storage Temperature: -40 to 85 degrees Celsius
Working Temperature:-25 to 75 degrees Celsius

As usual they came with no documentation but appear to be physicaly identical to the item on the site below so pinouts should be the same.

http://www.theengineeringprojects.com/2012/02/bluetooth-transceiver-module-rs232-ttl.html

Do you think they are usable?

I could post one to you if you are interested.

Yes there seem to be two varieties but neither is exactly right. One runs off 5V but has RS232, the other is TTL but 3.3V TTL. Rather annoying but I may be able to find a simple mod to one of them.

This is the RN42 modem I purchased, and it seems to say that it will work for 3.3-6V:
https://www.sparkfun.com/products/10269
According to Sparkfun,
"The remote unit can be powered from 3.3V up to 6V for easy battery attachment. All signal pins on the remote unit are 3V-6V tolerant. No level shifting is required. Do not attach this device directly to a serial port. You will need an RS232 to TTL converter circuit if you need to attach this to a computer."

     In order to do some initial setup, I had to use the ftdi-based USB/serial cable mentioned elsewhere so I would have the appropriate TTL level.

There is no setup required for this modem.

I originally bought mine to use with my Buell XB9.  The Buell had a fixed 9600 baudrate and did not negotiate.  The default on my RN42 was 115200 so I had to change it manually.  I understand that is not necessary when using it with the MyECU.  Sorry about the confusion because I am dealing with two very different bikes.

Hi All,
Just get a BT module on ebay as some of you.
Slight modifications on the connecting card to get the Tx/Rx.
Just put the SW4 "On" on "My16M".
And the Optimiser03.apk on my android device.

First test : the card is working, the BT is activated and I got a connection on my device with the Optimiser.
But after ... nothing : no real-time value or information.

Do I have missed something ?
Do I need a soft update of My16M ?
Do I need another BT device ?

Regards.

Please keep the forum updated on your progress, I am sure I am not the only one considering going down this path.

Which BT module did you use, do you know it's specifications?

Thanks Bob.

This module :

http://cgi.ebay.fr/Wireless-Serial-4-Pin-Bluetooth-RF-Transceiver-Module-with-Backplane-RS232-Cable-/120918704877?pt=US_USB_Bluetooth_Adapters_Dongles&hash=item1c275102ed

Specifications similar to the Roving Network RN-42 ...

I do not see any specifications mentioned on that page. How do you know it is similar to the RN-42

Also Sw4 should be off. It only needs to be on for the first bluetooth modules from A7. They went bust.

I use a BlueSMiRF Silver card which has RN42 on it and 5V TTL datalines.  https://www.sparkfun.com/products/10269

I also have sw4 on - have to change it.

With regard to messages 25,26 and 27.  Did you get any closer to ways of using these RS232 Bluetooth modules.

If I just power one up with 5v without connecting it to anything does it transmit so my phone can see it? I would at least then know it does work.

Thanks.

Bluetooth Modem just replaces the cable.
It's your ecu that communicates using info on the following line in your map:

Bluetooth MyCaliECU 123456

MyCaliEcu or what you may change it is the device name and the figure is a password.

Using my HTC I have to go Settings & Network and enable Bluetooth and then in Bluetooth settings enable Discoverable so that ecu can find Optimiser when you start it.

Thanks LOS, going back to message #26 of this thread you will see the BT module I bought appears to be a 3.3v TTL item, although that is obviously lower than the 5v the MyEcu works at I imagine it would still be detected as voltage pulses by the MyEcu and the very short term 5v pulses are unlikely to damage my BT unit, or am I wrong.

I suppose I could just solder the module up to a RJ45 plug and see what happens but hoped to get advice from the more knowledgeable.

Electronics is not my profession but just a hobby.
I browsed some articles in the web where people soldered resistors on modem's motherboards but it seemed so tedious that I decided to spent 30+ Euros and buy a BlueSmirf from Germany. Jerrys have lower VAT than we in our tax hell called Finland(Sweden is alike) and I could'n find any in Finland. I also saw some modems which were about 10Euros as well but they all had 3.3V datalines.

Hard to say what will happen to your modem. I suspect it will fry but only trying will solve the problem.

I've got both the modules but have not had the time to look at them.
Neither is a good proposition without some modification. I'm pretty sure the 5V RS232 would have inverted data signals on top of pushing 12V signals.
The 3V TTL would need some voltage reduction and would probably would need a data resistor as the ECU would be signalling at 5V
The supported module is only $40 so its not really worth avoiding.

I see your point, I was happy with dropping the 5v to 3.3v with a resistance divider but had not thought of the fact that the RS232 is inverted compared with the TTL.

Anyone want a nice piece of pcb jewelry?

Please explain again what specification the BT unit needs to be to connect it to the MyEcu.

1/ Is it RS232 or TTL

2/ Am I right in thinking it needs to be 5v.

3/ Do we simply plug the BT module directly to the MyEcu.

4/ Looking at the MyEcu RJ45 socket I can identify the ground and the 5v lines but don't know which is TX and RX.

5/ Assuming I can identify the TX line on the MyEcu RJ45 socket, does that go to the RX pin on the BT module as would seem logical.

6/ Having got the module correctly plugged into the MyEcu is it now only a matter of setting the transmission protocol, and speed.

7/  What is the protocol,  what is the speed?

8/ Lastly I gather I must set the bluetooth password within the MyEcu program via EcuController to match the BT unit.

Sorry if this all seems a bit laboured, I am trying to understand the situation.

The dongle is 5V TTL just like the USB to serial converter and it is connected to the ECU in exactly the same way.

Here http://www.cajinnovations.com/MyECU/pics/My16MMkIII_PCB.png you can see which to pins in the connector go straight to the chip. The tx is left most on the connector and goes to the rx on the module.

There is nothing to do for speed protocol except pair the BT donlge to the phone. I think 1234 as the PIN works.

The Bluetooth parameters in the map are not used. They are for the first gen dongle.

Thanks, it looks as if my BT module may work as it is TTL.

TTL is a rather vague term and really just means chip to chip.
It can be 5V or 3V

Also the Android Optimiser configures the BT module so if its not the same BT chipset it will require another set of initialisation commands.

Please advise which bt module to use and its specifications.

Thanks.

Its been mentioned a number of times - https://www.sparkfun.com/products/10269

YaBB Administrator wrote on 10/26/12 at 07:44:19:

Its been mentioned a number of times - https://www.sparkfun.com/products/10269

Thanks for clarifying that. 

And you solder the bluetooth modum's pads to the wires of a lan cable, to connect the sparkfun 10269 unit to the MyECU?  Is that right? 

That's right. Very similar to the way the USB connector is wired now

Bobd, did you ever get either of your economical bluetooth modules to work?

To be honest with you no I have'nt. 

I am still a bit confused with how to wire them up, the voltage implications and the suggestion that not all BT modems will work with the MyEcu. I have'nt had the nerve to connect one up yet. If I connect one up just to power source should my Android phone 'see' it?  That would seem to the first step I will have to try to at least get it in contact with the phone before connecting it to the MyEcu, should only blow the BT module then if I get it wrong.

I have my house up for sale at the moment and am having to live extra tidily, or "like normal folk" according to my wife, so no boxes of bits and soldering irons laying around. Taking a little time to find things now as everything is in boxes to show how uncluttered the place is........ :-[ :'(

Selling a house is a huge pain, and I can understand not wanting to blow the MyECU unit.

Best of luck on the sale.

Hi, here is a short update and summary of getting an older My16M to work with BT Optimiser. This information can be found elsewhere in the forum but it is a bit scattered.

My16M used here : http://files.myopera.com/v2tre/albums/6329701/2012-10-11-1185.jpg

1. For BT communication, you need a MyECU with recent enough firmware version. If in doubt check from Cliff.

2. You also need a new enough ATMega processor chip (ATMega 324) to  match up with the newer firmware.

3. The one BT modem that is known to work ok is this one : https://www.sparkfun.com/products/10269

4. The BT modem is connected with a modified cable into the RJ45 plug on the MyECU board : http://files.myopera.com/v2tre/albums/6329701/2012-11-21-1326.jpg

The wiring of the modem is easy. Just ensure that you connect the Vcc (+5 V) and GND correctly. Then connect Tx from the MyECU to Rx at the BT modem and Rx from the MyEcu to Tx at the BT modem. Plug your new cable to the board : http://my.opera.com/v2tre/albums/showpic.dml?album=6329701&picture=171052272#bigimg

5. Download the Android Optimiser and install to your phone. I think the latest version is here : http://www.cajinnovations.com/MyECU/ECUController/Optimiser06b.apk

6. Power up MyECU and you see led blinking on BT Modem.

7. Pair your phone with the BT modem. It will be shown as "RN-42 something" and the pin is 1234. Please note that the name and bin in the map-file seem not anymore have any meaning. Those can be ignored. Your phone might show notification : "Paired but not connected". Led is now lighted continuously.

8. Now when the phone is paired with the modem, launch the Optimiser App. Inside the App you need to select the BT modem to make up the connection. After that you can start using the other features.

Here My16M is talking with Samsung phone over the BT : http://files.myopera.com/v2tre/albums/6329701/2012-11-21-1324.jpg

Please correct any mistakes or errors.

br, JuhaV

A few more things ...

Easiest way to ensure that you make up your cable correctly is to check the location of the Vcc, GND, Rx and TX lines here : http://circuits.datasheetdir.com/18/ATMEGA324P-pinout.jpg

Pin 14 is Rx, pin 15 is Tx.

(ERRATA 22.11.2012 : I linked an incorrect page here first, now the above link goes to correct pin schematics Sorry for that !)

Then you can see their route to the connector here : http://www.jefferies-au.org/MyECU/pics/My16MMkIII_PCB.png

What I did was that I removed the ATMega from the board, plugged in a cut RJ45 cable and measured with ohm meter which of the wires of the cable were connected to the correct pins at the ATMega 40 pin socket.

The corresponding Vcc, GND, Tx and Rx are clearly marked on the BT modem board. Do not forget to cross the Rx-Tx lines between ECU and BT modem.

I believe that the DIP switch 4 should nowadays also remain "off" as the firmware does not perform any special initialization of the BT modem but uses the connection in similar manner as the "standard" wired RS232 connection.

Hopefully this is helpfull.

- JuhaV

Thankyou JuhaV, you have encouraged me to take another look at this method of connecting to the MyEcu.

Bobd, hopefully that info helps you.

One more observation : We tried the Optimiser Apps with two different phones. Recent model Samsung (I think it was Galaxy S3) worked ok but an older HTC Wildfire S only made the connection with BT but could not run the Optimiser Apps properly.

It might have been that HTC did not have enough free memory to perform properly.

- JuhaV

I am hoping to use a Samsung Galaxy Mini

JuhaV, thanks for the information.  I'm interested in going Bluetooth too.  I'm using a Sony P tablet with Android.

Hi guys

Here a source of this modules in europe. Not much more expensive than direct from sparkfun, and no need to worry with customs.

http://www.hobbytronics.co.uk/wireless/bluetooth/bluesmirf-silver

Hi,

th part can also be found from here --> http://robosavvy.com/store/product_info.php/cPath/41_1016_1115/products_id/1273

just ordered mine yesterday.
:)

much better price. Thanks for the link

going to order one.

http://pc-level.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/10/rj45-pinout-300x106.jpg

to connect the BT to the MyECU with a lan cable;

Cut the cable, take a look at the wires in the RJ45 plug - make note on what colour is going to what pin.

Solder wire from pin 8 to RX on the BT module.
Solder wire from pin 6 to TX on the BT module.
Solder wire from pin 1 to GND on the BT module.
Solder wire from pin 7 to VCC on the BT module.

/EDIT: the colours on my cable were

8 brown
6 orange
1 green/white
7 brown/white

/edit again, for more pics:  ;D

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-ZB_hIwSaG0I/ULcUFeTCPsI/AAAAAAAADoE/TN66qnhs8r4/s720/20121128_125652.jpg

https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-zg6VRlU-2tE/ULcT60DXwYI/AAAAAAAADn8/a45rUKgDU_Y/s720/20121128_125718.jpg

Excellent post 996SPS, by chance my BT module from Robosavvy turned up this morning so I immediately wired it as you say. 

I have the MyEcu on the bench at the moment (mine now has a flying lead tucked inside the case to connect 12v for testing), plugged in the RN42 module to the MyEcu and 12v to the MyEcu. I then started up my old Ipaq H3975 Pocket PC, a quick BlueTooth search found the device as RN42-589B with the service as SPP (whatever that is). EDIT: I have just found SPP is Serial Port Protocol and emulates an RS22 connection - makes sense as that is what we are trying to do!

Now I need to steal my son's phone and try the Android app.

Is there a PocketPC program available that will enable me to log a ride with the Ipaq via BlueTooth rather than using a netbook with a wired connection as I do at present?

one more thing.

I have the P8 MyECU, don't know if the pin order on the PCB is the same on the M16 MyECU?

Bobd: If you're unable to steal your sons phone, you can also try stealing your wife's android tablet.. it'll work in there too and as an added bonus, the screen is much bigger! easier to read!  :D

It works with my MkIV My15M.

Grabbed the nipper's Samsung Galaxy Mini GT-S5570, the App downloaded and installed easily.

When paired with the MyEcu the phone displayed the correct battery voltage and TPS but showed both temps as -30 and the air pressure as 1000mb.  Plugging in the old Optimiser showed Oil 11',  air 8' and 1011mb.  Battery a bit flat so have not run the bike yet but assume I am connected as the TPS varies when twisting the throttle.

I now know it is neccesary to load the map from the ecu first to get it to display the full parameters.

Do you think this unit will work?  It's a Bluetooth Mate Silver RN-42 from Sparkfun.

The usual Sparkfun unit:  https://www.sparkfun.com/products/10269

Bluetooth Mate Silver RN-42:  https://www.sparkfun.com/products/10393


My favorite local full-service electrical shop sold me this, saying they were a direct replacement for the BlueSMiRF Silver unit. 

They appear the same, but this unit is "optimized" for Arduino.  It looks like the only change may be the pin outs, but I'd like a mind greater than my own to verify.

What does the board think?



I would have ordered the usual Sparkfun unit, but my store had this in stock, and was resistant to special ordering something else. 

The key is that it uses the same RN-42 chip.  As long as you pay attention to the TX/RX pinouts and do them correctly, it should work just fine.

These are the important sentences that it is compatible:

The Bluetooth Mate has on-board voltage regulators, so it can be powered from any 3.3 to 6VDC power supply.

We've got level shifting all set up so the RX and TX pins on the remote unit are 3-6VDC tolerant.

Thanks for checking the suitability of the unit.

When I took computer science in school, they were still programming with punch cards.

sign216 wrote on 12/27/12 at 23:42:15:

Thanks for checking the suitability of the unit. When I took computer science in school, they were still programming with punch cards.

I started my career as a programmer by writing FORTRAN II programs for this one http://www-03.ibm.com/ibm/history/exhibits/mainframe/mainframe_PP1620.html

- Punched card, paper tape and keyboard input; card, paper tape and printed output.
- Simultaneous read, compute and punch when using card input-output.
- Large-capacity core storage - up to 60,000 digits.
- High internal processing speeds. Access time - 20 microseconds.

When I were a lad 'digital' meant you used your fingers, Anna Log was the girl next door.

I'm getting ready to solder the Bluetooth unit to the lan cable w RJ45 plug.  Thank you to member 996SPS for the great pictures!  Outstanding!

Any new information or tips on this that I should be aware of?

I'd like to sheath the finished assembly with heat-shrink tubing, to protect it from water, oil, etc.
Any issues with that idea?

That should be ok. The only issue is hiding the LEDs. I just bundle some bubble wrap around mine.

I wired my up and it's working fine!

I see now the value in having the led lights visible.  I'll probably use a clear wrap of some kind, as you suggested.

This is my first meaningful use of my Android tablet (a Sony P).  As I explore the Android system and MyECU I'll post other questions as they come up.   

Hi guys, I'm new to this forum.  Just got my first ride with My16M, what a blast!  As for Bluetooth, it works great.  Only issue I have is rpm will be droppin to half actual intermittently. But I use an after market GPT speedo and DIY led rpm gauge.  So I need to check it out first to make sur it's not my wiring.  Secondly, I put the BT dongle inside the 40 pin chip plastic package it cam in (I bought the diy kit from cliff) and put it in. I need to clean up my setup but it'S looking like the attached picture.  I'll silicone the end to seal it up and use sjrink wrap (electronic store) for both ends.  I also will run it through the rubber ECu cover which I will seal to then use velcro to stick the BT ontop the ECU.  My 2 cents!

Cheers

Stef[ http://www.freeimagehosting.net/t/ningz.jpg