I understand I will have to provide a case to fit the fit the MYECU into, what else is required.  I don't want to destroy my original Marelli ecu. I have seen mention of the original  air pressure sensor being moved to the MYECU and of needing a special connector.  I have a 2004 V11Lemans fitted with the WM15M ecu, there does not seem to be any special plug, just rows of soldered in pins.

The pressure sensor is available separately. For the connector you can try the link given here
It's a great link btw. They sell 44GBP TPSes even, albeit the HD version still is cheaper.

Normally you need the pressure sensor, the main ECU connector and the case from the donor ECU.
Alternatively you can source the parts as Luhbo suggests.

I source my donor ECUs from ebay and you can check your local Guzzi/Ducati dealer. They may have dead ones lying around.

I guess the answer is 'No, it is not a complete kit'.  That of course prompts the question 'Why not?' 

I can understand the difficulty of supplying the case but surely everything else should be supplied, otherwise why not just sell a parts list and the all important central rom/cpu which carries the copywritten program.  It would make for a cheaper buy as many folk may have access to the more common components. I don't understand why you all use the original case, any case that would fit onto the bike would do, or as usual am I missing something.

I guess it's not too uncommon people buy a MyECU because the OEM went tits up. Then there is already a case, connector and a pressure sensor waiting to be recycled.

The OEM housing provides the necessary cooling, the fixation points and cleans up below the seat. Of course it works with different housings as well. It's totally up to you. You can search for car versions (WM16, Fiat) or e.g. Piaggio Beverly (WM15) and others.
Hubert

Many thanks for explaining, I will now start looking around for an old WM15M.

Welcome, in a double sense :)
I forgot to mention EMC reasons. I remember having read about such problems when the unit operates without the aluminium cover mounted. What is strange, because the cover isn't connected to ground anyway (unless a conductive sealing silicon is used).
Hubert

Thanks for your kind words.

I now have a second hand IAW15M.A8 ecu from a Ducati 900ie.

Please confirm this is acceptable before I rip it apart and order a MY15M and Optimiser.

I have also obtained a used standard V11 exhaust cross-over pipe with an O2 sensor fitted, assuming this is an original Guzzi part, is this usable.

I am wondering if I can fit this crossover and use it to moniter the A/F ratio at present with the stock ecu, I do not intend to connect the sensor to the ecu - rather to use it as a stand-alone device.  I understand these sensors operate around the one volt area, perhaps I can use a multimeter and then use a conversion chart. I have seen A/F gauges but suspect they are just voltmeters.

Alternativly perhaps I could use some form of data logger - although this is perhaps moving into unknown territory for me. Anyone know of any kits, either for an XP etbook or an old HP Compaq 3970 PDA running Windows Mobile 2003 with a USB interface.

I have built a few electronic kits over the years so feel reasonably confident.

Yes that ECU should be fine. All 15Ms are ok.

The standard Guzzi 02 sensor is ok. I have it on my Breva 750.

You'd be wasting your time monitoring the stock ECU. There's nothing you can take forward.

I'm not sure PDAs come with a USB host interface. A netbook would be easier, that and my ECUController software is all you would need for datalogging.
If you want to use a PDA you will need Windows Mobile 5 and you should get one of the bluetooth adapters I still have.

If you get the Optimiser you don't really need to do the datalogging route.

I have now taken the lid of the spare WM15M, fairly easy if you take time to allow the sealant to separate.

The Air Pressure Sensor is a fairly common MPXA4115A, a web search suggests it is probably a Motorola part although other companies also list it, about £16 including postage from China on Ebay. It turns up in varies projects to build weather stations and suchlike.

As the plug is also available I am now unsure if I should strip this ecu or find an alloy diecast box and build it up from there. I need to measure up the space on the bike. (2004 Guzzi V11 Le Mans Rosso Corsa.)

I take the point about heatsinks and RF/static shielding.

The oem circuit board is mounted on thin insulated shims, none of the components are directly against the case.  Most of the components are on the lower surface of the circuit board with no airgap to allow the heat to rise to the finned side of the box, so I expect Magnetti Marelli were not too worried about heat buildup.  I wonder if the fins are for show. My VW Passat ecu has no fins and sits inside a plastic box so not likely to be well cooled. Still may be a good idea to find a box with fins or screw some fins on.

I first came across the RF shielding problem some years ago during a engineering production meeting when the designer mentioned HIRF -hi intensity radiated field....I thought he had a speech impediment and was worried about static bonding!

The box has of course to be vented to atsmosphere for the pressure sensor, the little black round plastic thing on the top of the oem case seems to be a simple vent with a filter to discourage dampness.

Looking at the MYECU website suggests I may be a little too late to the party, hopefully my comments may be of use to other newbies.  I wonder if more interest may be developed as the bikes grow a little older and cheaper - less resistance to tinkering with them.

Perhaps Cliff could add an update to the MYECU website to show it is still a live project and hi-light the forum.

The air pressure sensor on my donor ECU is partially covered in a plastic caulk (see photo).  Is this recoverable?

The sensor's metal cap fell off, but putting that back on appears easy enough.

Bobd, thanks for the part no. MXA4115A.  Mine also has that no.  The part is available, but at $25-35, and not from my usual electronics suppliers.

http://www.flickr.com/photos/sign216/6802912692/lightbox/

Don't think you need to use that plastic caulk, Cliff suggested using a hot glue gun to hold things in place, I also see much use of that in the photos of the Optimiser.

This can be found under:

MyECU > MyECU Kit Construction > My15M and Optimiser now working.

(Is there a sinpler way of refering to another post? )

That's just a rubber like compound to secure things. Just cut it away with a knife so that you can desolder it.

Thanks for the replies.  I'll cut if off and desolder.

Test if first.

Test the air pressure sensor? 

How?  I am all ears.

Sorry I thought I was replying to Bob about cutting the capacitor off. Ignore previous post. You will however need to put the appropriate pressure sensor line in your map as mentioned in the other thread

Is orientation of the air pressure sensor important?  It's possible to solder it in two different positions.

On my donor ECU the air pressure sensor is on the opposite side of the board, than on MyECU.  So it's difficult to know which way (of two possible choices) it should go.

Does it matter? 

If you look very closely at the pictures of the circuit board and of the assembled board you will find the lower RH corner has a chamfer.  That is looking at the component side of the board with the main connector at the bottom. You can enlarge the red and blue picture of the pcb quit a lot.

Thanks Bobd, now that you point it out, I see the chamfer.  It's easy to miss. 

You'll notice one of the pads on the PCB is rectangular rather than rounded. That is pin 1. Pin 1 should be marked in the sensor, usually by a little diagonal on one of the corners.

Just solder the 3 pins that have connections at first so you can easily get off if you get it wrong.