Cliff, thanks for the welcome!

I have a couple of questions that I assume are due the this  board being a "b" version.

C18 is said to be 47uF 63V and the one supplied is 220uF 35V.  Is this the correct capacitor to install into C18?

R34, R25 are shown as 2K7.  I have 2 tan coloured unmarked resistors left.  Are these the correct resistors?

Q5; do I install after the board tests OK?

MOV, have 1 black unmarked resistor, is this the MOV that  mounts under the board between #34 and 35 of the main connector?

Has the jumper between T1 and the Q1 IGN FET been built into the board?

Can I mount the blue tooth dongle inside the CPU case and leave it connected?  If so, I might consider removing the RJ45 connector and solder the dongle directly into the board!

Thanks heaps,
James

James,
Go get a mutltimeter and check the resistor value your self.  No need to install stuff you are unsure of.

I'm no expert, but if some of the components aren't the right value, I'd go to an electronics store and get the right ones. 

I can't answer your other questions right now, but those are my responses at first blush.
Joe

sign216 wrote on 11/15/15 at 00:51:33:

James, Go get a mutltimeter and check the resistor value your self.  No need to install stuff you are unsure of. I'm no expert, but if some of the components aren't the right value, I'd go to an electronics store and get the right ones.  I can't answer your other questions right now, but those are my responses at first blush. Joe

Joe,  My board has some changes from the 16M VII shown. I'm assuming, but need to clarify that there may have also been changes to some of the components.  Hope this will help future builders.

I also need to make a first post so I can use all the features of the forum ;)!

Cheers,
James

It would be best to email directly for these types of questions.

The substitution for C18 is OK
All the resistors are labelled. Send me pictures of your board so far and the components.
Q5 qoes on after you verify the ECU is seeing the correct voltage with the Optimiser app.

No more jumpers for the IGN FETS
The bluetooth dongle must be external to the case as RF will not penetrate the metal case.

Thanks Cliff,

Checked my work and found I had stuffed up and put the 2K7 resistors where the 27pF capacitors needed to go :-[.  All good now!

After a couple of minor glitches (I can't read or count), the ecu tested spot on!  Thanks Cliff.
Installed ecu and blue tooth last week, purchased an aldi tablet and loaded map, all good so far.  Ran bike then took it for a run around the block which went well until a massive backfire and limped bike home 400meteres missing coughing backfiring :(!!!  Tank off, checked sensors then un-taped ecu lid and found chip had come out of the socket.  I was not happy when I put the chip in and thought it should go in further to the pin shoulders but did not want to force it!  It is now seated properly.
http://i819.photobucket.com/albums/zz111/echotoo/P1000185_zpsextckqut.jpg
http://i819.photobucket.com/albums/zz111/echotoo/P1000187_zpsm91dhhbd.jpg

Just went for a 60k round trip up to Scone and wow what a difference.  No hunting and coughing, did stall once at the local shopping centre.  Can't believe this bike has run so disgracefully for the last 19 years, and it has a UltiMap chip, which I understand was an improvement over stock.
Installed Raz's sport map following the comment on the forum that it went well in a Daytona RS, so far no tuning.  needs a little work on idle and some engine braking and all will be good :).
Thanks for the map Raz.

Nice. You might benefit from at least some tuning of the upper few rows of 2nd-3rd column or so, ie. going from idle to very sudden WOT. Actually when we did that thoroughly on a Centauro (also with my map as base) we needed to set the top cells for 1150 & 1500 rps manually to max value (can't recall now but I think it is 16383), because when adjusting by percent it ended up rolling over to a lower number. Took some head scratching to figure that one out.

Sockets are a considerable point of failure in vehicles. I can't recall what socket I got from Cliff (I think it was fine) but in general they should be expensive because they are worth it. Ideally even a ZIF socket that holds it tight as hell. I've had relays popping out of their sockets twice, both times (of course) when overtaking cars with meeting traffic ahead... I've actually had zip ties around all relays even since - I don't want another of those t-shirts  :o

Finally getting around to build my board. I have never used SMD components before, and am having difficulty identifying them (please see link) Also what is the technique for soldering components?

https://photos.google.com/album/AF1QipOJsELXpyB1wcFgSZ-b77lQoUNvqF8t8kC_Ufpu/photo/AF1QipOgSyjSffin-UZ0FIdh1YzBB5InRtBDZ2pHQtyq

Guzziando,
The link isn't working for me.  Regardless, is this your first time soldering?  Perhaps you should practice first on a simpler item.
Joe

Thanks for your reply. I have soldered for many years, but this is the first time I have tried SMD soldering. All is good, I have heard from Cliff. :)

Cliff gives great advice, so you should be in good shape.

Joe