Most (or all) people that replaced the TPS for very similar reasons found it to be a waste of money. If adding some fuel at that cell does not help, try increasing your valve lash just a tad more.

Thank you for the info. I have opened up the vale lash from what I used to run to what Raz recommends, which is what I was riding with on the weekend. I don’t really want to go any bigger in the clearances as I have read that it creates more wear in the valve train. I tried to keep an eye on the tacho when I was riding to see if the needle was fluctuating. I thought that at the said position it looked be a little nervous, but not overly noticeable. I will give it another ride and try and get a better look at things. If that looks ok I will check the map and doctor it at that point and see what happens. I thought if I use a multi meter on the tps it might show something up.

Yes I realised that I could use ECU controller after my post. I thought, I bet there are few having a chuckle on the forum. I have had a look at start map, and Raz’s map in the RPM and injection duration table. I hope that’s where I should be sussing things out? Raz’s map has a big drop off in injector duration from 3001rpm to 3501rpm and then jumps up at 4000rpm again. The start map drops off less aggressively around these points. So I guess that would be a good starting point as Raz pointed out. I will also use the ECU controller to check TPS operation. 

28 degrease C, that’s a winter’s day in our part of the world. The little lady of the house comes from Scotland, and the weather is one thing she doesn’t miss. She took me over there in December 2007. I thought it was great as it is totally different to what I am used to. I could not get over the folk riding motorcycles though, rain, cold, fog, snow and ice. I slipped over a couple of times just walking, and I hadn’t had a drop of the local brew at the time. One of the blokes I spoke to said, if you only took your bike out on the fine days you would never get to ride.  How did you go with your wiring?  I will be back in the shed on the weekend to try and sort out my little hiccup area. Have a good one.

Regs, what sort of TPS do you have on your bike? The big one or the newer, smaller, more cylindrical cheapo used on the newer bikes (late Sporties and V11 ...). These PF3C (or is it 4c?) in all their crapiness do show a tendency to wear exactly around this area.



this is the resistive layer of mine, dissected after only 50.000 km. I'm sure it was already bad at 30.000 (replaced it with the HD version btw.)

hubert

PS: would love to have some Scottish weather actually. Dust and sweat are no fun either.

I would say that it has the later TPS. Some time back on the V11 forum I do remember reading about replacing the Guzzi unit with a HD one. The bike has a bit over 30,000k on it. I recon 90% + of the throttle setting would be around the 3000ish rpm. The roads here once you get off the coast are long and straight with 100k between + between towns. But if your head down and ass up with the throttle held hard against the full noise stop you might feel a corner or two, so the potentiometer might have wear at this point. The bike didn’t jerk when I first got it, which showed up somewhere after 15,000K a little bit at a time. It isn’t as bad as it was with the new ECU on board but that could be because of the different TPS setting at idle. I shall investigate this weekend.   
YaBB   (I have my right hand straddle the bar end to reduce the effect of bumps). I take it that’s in reply to trying to get a fix on the Tacho out on the road? Either that or the fumes from the soldering are getting to you  only joking

Luhbo wrote on 05/30/12 at 05:49:20:


Jesus, what a piece of crap! And I actually thought it was wound (as in past tense of "wind", not injured LOL). I wonder what mine looks like after >80,000 km.

Raz