The first thing you need to eliminate as an issue is the battery. Only today I had a new owner tell me this was an issue for him. Low battery can cause the ECU to have a brownout reset which can make things difficult.
If you have a booster use that and keep you battery well charged until cold starts are sorted.

Are you using any throttle? I start my bikes with no throttle until it starts to fire and then ease it open. If you are doing like wise I suggest increasing the first column more You currently have
InjDur 01  4016  3552  3392  3424  2992  2752  2528  1520  1696  1536  1408  1376  1328  1296  1264  1248
InjDur 00  3616  3600  2528  2192  2016  1888  1680  1584  1360  1168  1008   832   784   784   784   784
I reckon making first column about 50% more than second. My reasoning is that the air input is bleed restricted and the slower 500RPM has more time to get air so therefor needs more fuel than the idle at 1100.
Regards
Cliff

Just my 2 cents.
The inj adv table seemed odd to me.
Have seen this on other maps. I feel have fuel just pooling of sorts on intake valve for so long won't mix well. The argument is the fuel atomises better on the hot intake valve. It may do, it may not. I just know my bike runs far better with a later inj adv.

Different bikes, found on my ST4, starting with spark adv set to map at start up, adjusting inj adv map to squirt much later, leaving the prime and boist as Cliff sets them made starting cold pretty easy. Also, no throttle until it starts.

I modded the map to what i think may help you. This is only from my experience. Use map at own discretion.

The TPS value should be set as at idle.
Link rod etc connected.
Would imagine the 27 was  inline with reseting base volt value for TPS .
Yours will be closer to the 76 mark at idle.

Hi again,

The 27 TPS value I've been using, I read off the display in the app with the bike switched on, but not runnig.
I'll check it again this afternoon with the bike running!

Cheers

Esben

Good progress.
If it starts with throttle lever, i'd be inclined to think idle stop needs a bit more.
My understanding is give it the throttle opening it needs to idle. I found with oem and MyECU, the factory millivolts reading was too low. Got the base set to 150mv by adjusting tps initially.
Idle is around 412mv. Thats adjusting idle screw, not the tps. Don't touch tps, only idle stop screw.
My thoughts is to set map to 76, adjust idle stop until app reads 76. The 27 you quote just seems way to low. With air bleeds open, that may make sense.
I closed off the bypass screws completely. They are used to CO%. This can be done with app.
If Guzzi anything like Ducati, 12.5:1 Air/fuel ratio is around 5% CO. Will give a good idle.
I balance the throttle bodies with link rod.
If it starts and idles, your most way there.

Only mentioned the Mv's in reference to what had been done. My own experience with oem Mv figures was base setting was ok, but recommended idle volts always off

The app makes it so so simple to idle etc. Much better way. I think there is benefit to set the base Mv figure though.

Good your making progress.

I only changed Inj adv and prime lines. All else was as per. If your getting better result with original map, run with it.