Kept it going till warm, getting familiar w/dials, buttons, modes.  Have to add 15% and set TPS factor for a 165mv base setting.

guzzisteve wrote on 09/13/11 at 00:17:29:



Whazza Techlusion?

edit: ok googled it - an "interfacey' sort of doohinky at first look....

Remove the Techlusion. That is just an unnecessary complication.

Where did you get the Sport map from? Did you replace the My16M configuration lines the MyP8 configuration lines?

Send me a copy of the map you are using.
Check SW1 in ECU is on for open loop mode. You should have on,off,on,off.

As you drop it down, keep using the pot in autotune to find the sweet spot - 1/4 turn, tune, 1/4 turn, tune.

The map entries involved would be 0,1 0,2 and maybe 0,3 . I used to have a notch in the spark advance at 0,2. You might want to remove that if its still there. Check the injdur of those 3 cells also for continuity.

PS: I find it easier to slowly lean till it starts to falter then richen till smooth.
The other way is not as accurate.

Did you change Sw3? It should be on.

Looks like I've slipped up and not modified my web site with the latest owners manual. Give me a few minutes and I'll update it.

Edit: I've added a link to the new owners manual. You'll note the different wording for SW3.
The amazing thing is it runs so well with an inverted spark output. I've covered 1/2 km before realising something is not quite right.

Your supposed to get the idle right and make adjustments to the map based on the changes you made for idle BEFORE you then go riding.

What gas sensor are you using?

Lets focus just on the idle for the moment.

I think my maps have closed loop disabled at idle and the entire row 0 ( via the flags table ). You may find the idle adjustment easier if you enable closed loop.

Also try setting the ECU TPS in the map high like 200. The ECU will see that the real throttle is less and just keep it on row 0 as you play with the idle screw. Closed loop will keep the mixture right.

So here are the steps I recommend.
1) Start with my Cali map
2) Set TPS line to 200
3) Set row 0 of flags table to 4.
3b) Optionally you may want to add 10% to row 0 injdur
4) Load map into ECU. SW1 off, SW3 on
5) Start bike and warm.
6) Keep optimiser on main menu and wait for closed loop to start
7) Adjust screws to get 1100-1200
8) Note the closed loop correction value and throttle setting and report.

Did like you said and had it idling at 1100-1150 with an 80 TPS value.
Made a new map w/15% fuel increase in 0.1 & 0.2, 10% in 0.3 and the new 80 TPS value. Got too late to run .  Tomorrow after work again.

Not sure about the plugs. Inverted output would basically advance the spark by a fixed time ~4ms. This would be a different angle for different RPM.

Popping getting loader might be normal as you are added more fuel to pop with. It probably means you just need to add more again.